yes mate it is spot on cheers karl
hi
whats with the 2 balls and a bit of tubing inbetween , is it just a float , if so why cant a carp float do , will it support a live bait ?.
the two balls are polly balls with ure line through the stiff rig tubing is to hold the polyballs apart an stop tangling the rig can be used for livebaiting suspended worms, or liver etc.
Hi CEC,
You're right it is really just a float but it does have anti-tangle properties. Also, the advantage over a traditional float is that the dumbell is anchored with a ledger weight. No reason you can't use a large float for live baits like you would for pike but you would have to keep an eye on it.
The dumbell allows you to fish a suspended bait at whatever depth you want. It doesn't have to be on the surface.
looking at the pic , dos the lead run free up and down the line , if so how do ya set the depth , do ya use differant hook links ie 6" ,10" and so on .
i guess i need to see 1 set up and im sure it will be easy.
the lead does run free up and down the main line and u could use different size hook links to set the depth but becarefull not to make the hooklink longer then the distance between both polyballs. if u do the rig can tangle easy.
The rig is generallly fished on the surface mate, it allows you to keep a livebait or bunch of worms in the surface layer. The lead runs free, I use about 8 inch of tube between the pollyballs and about a 6 inch hooklink. The lead is there to keep the bait in a fixed-ish position. If you want to fish the rig sub surface all you need to do is to tie a sliding stop knot behind the lead and slide it back from the pollyballs to the depth you want it to pop up too. There is another rig to fish livebaits sub surface tough that I think is much better. Here we go:
Tie a six or eight inch hooklink but also on the eye of the hook, tie a piece of thin braid about 12 inch long.
On the end of this braid put a small loop.Tie your hooklink to a running ledger rig with a rubber bead both sides of the lead.
Tie a sliding stop knot behind the ledger and set it to the depth required.
Now get a large foam bait popper, Not a polly ball, fox make them.
Put a bait needle through the foam bait popper and pull the braid loop through.
Fix this off with a hair stop.
Now hook up your livebait and drop it in the edge of the lake and you will see how it works. The bait popper will rise and bring the livebait up. The livebait will fight against the popper but the popper will always keep the bait from just sitting on the bottom. Great for fishing over silty or weedy bottoms. If you want you can put some heat shrink over the thin braid to help against tangles and one tip, before you cast it all in, tie the bait popper braid to the main line behind the lead with some pva string. This will stop it tangling on the cast. Once you have cast in leave your bail arm off and you will see the line come off when the pva string melts. I have a rig made up somewhere, next time I get my gear out I will put a photo on for you all.
i thought it might be a good idea to have a place for a library of sorts of rigs being either photos or dawings. i will start with my favourite two rigs. the top one is a bolt rig with rig tubing and leadcore wire wrapped around the end, the second one is a running rig on leadcore.
[image] [image]-nickcatfisher99
Death rigs
How would/could you improve these rigs and make them safe to use ?
You can't help yourself can you!!
Death rigs-rodney
hi Ian one is a bolt rig with the pin still in it which means the lead cant come free.
The 2nd rig is a free running rig with a stop knot half way up the carp leader which again means the lead cant come free.
Well then let do what this site is getting known for, and throw some ideas around and sort these problems out. I am with you on the first one, but I use a sliding stop knot behind a lead when I fish a fixed depth sub surface pop up livebait. I have tried to get my head around this but I am faced with pros and cons here. The pros are that I am fishing a fixed depth and not trusting to judgement, and the other is that the sliding stop knot gives a semi bolt action. The cons are as you said, if you do get a break then you are trusting that the stop knot will slide off allowing the lead to free. Not good I know. I think the only way aroud this is to fish the lead on a bolt clip and fish the hooklink to the depth required, but this then makes it difficult mid session if I wish to adjust the depth. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
When fishing sub surface, why not just fish a longer hook length on a proper free running rig and just tighten back to the lead? This can be done quite easily upto 6'' deep. TRo adjust the depth just use a longer, or shorter, hooklengh, better than leaving a fish towing a lead every single time, no exceptions. The other option is to use a standard hooklength, tighten upto the lead and then pull line off as you would using a marker float, lets be honest pulling line off 6 or 12'' at a time aint that difficult.
extra Large ceramic run rings wind down to the lead and let a foot off at a time
Nice one Nathan , education from experienced anglers is the way forward .
Simples, The large ceramic rings are the way forward. Cheers fellas.
You can buy the rings from Simon Clark, or if your friendly with a tackle shop, or just tight, you can use the end rings off old carp rods. I recently scrounged a handfull of rings from Fosters in birmingham. Just straighten the leg out then trim it off with tin snips to just after the point where the two halfs form a single leg. This then leaves you with an eye below the ring attach a quick link to this and slide a silicone sleeve over it. Your lead can be attached to the quick link. This makes it very neat. here is one without the silicone sleeve.
Very light lead you've got on there Dave![]()
Incidently, Simon hasn't got any more of those rings, not the ones with the tag for the snap link, I tried to get some recently, he said the supply dried up but he's trying to get another supplier. Don't hold yer breath tho, yer know what Simon is like, lol
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